Table of Contents
Aetius (390–454) – the tragic end of „the last Roman” Agostino Chigi (1466–1520) – a financial genius, an enthusiast of lavish lifestyle and art Alaric (370–411) – revenge of an underestimated ally, meaning a strike at the very heart of the Empire Alberic II (909? – 954) – an annihilator of his own mother and a prince of Rome Alessandro Algardi (1598–1654) – unappreciated master of the Baroque art Andrea Pozzo (1642–1709) – a master of painting illusion Andrea Sansovino (approx. 1467–1529) – the one who was able to bring the dead back to life Annibale Carracci (1560–1609) – a straightforward recluse in the world of Roman splendor Antinous (approx. 110–130 A.D.) – a youth, for whom the emperor lost his mind Antiveduto Grammatica (1571–1626) – an expert on heads with an extraordinary name Antoniazzo Romano (1430? – 1512?) – an outstanding imitator of great masters Antonio Barberini (1607–1671) – one of the three “musketeers” of Urban VIII Antonio Canova (1757–1822) – praised by his contemporaries, disregarded by later generations Antonio Raggi (1624–1686) – a second pair of hands for master Bernini Apollo Belvedere – the greatest work of art from among all the works of antiquity Benrnini’s Apollo and Daphne – a rock animated by love Arianism – a troublesome for the Church quarrel, over the Son of God Armando Brasini (1879–1965) – creator of a bombastically draped architecture Artemisia Gentileschi (1593–1653) – an unwomanly painter, humiliated and forgotten for centuries Attila (approx. 400–453) – divine whip and the nemesis of Rome, a figure between myth and reality Aventine Hill – a place of peace, harmony and spiritual enrichment Baciccio (1639–1709) – the creator of heaven and hell on Earth San Giovanni in Laterano Baptistery – a water-filled cradle of Christianity Barberini – a recipe for immortality Bartolomeo Ammannati (1511–1592) – the beginnings of an outstanding career of a great Italian Mannerist Beatrice Cenci (1577–1599) – a patricide absolved by Romans, commemorated by the city Benito Mussolini (1883–1945) – successor of emperors; a charismatic and adored leader The Battle of Milvian Bridge – a clash between good and evil, or was it? Bronzino (1503–1572) – subtle, refined, and mysterious Camillo Francesco Maria Pamphilj (1622–1666) – an arthritis-filled expiation of the papal nephew Camillo Rusconi (1658–1728) – a little known genius of the turn of the centuries Campo de’Fiori – a field full of flowers, bloodbaths, and market stalls Caravaggio (1571–1610) - a subtle interpreter of the Bible and a common criminal Carlo Maderno (1556–1629) – a sought-after, hard-working and talented architect Carlo Maratti (Maratta) (1625–1713) – an outstanding portraitist and a father of an equally outstanding daughter Carlo Rainaldi (1611–1691) – an architect with a love for music Carlo Saraceni (1579–1620) – an artist somewhere between verismo and idealism Casina of Cardinal Bessarion – a summer house from the Renaissance Casino dell’Aurora – a pearl of art of an entrepreneurial papal nepot Casino di Villa Doria Pamphilj – a symbol of social status and a tool of international rivalries Casino Ludovisi – a cardinal’s idyll on the outskirts of the city Cesare Borgia (1476–1507) – papal offspring whom the whole world feared Emperor Antoninus Pius (86–161) – a god-fearing, reasonable and just host Emperor Domitian (51–96) - a great constructor and a despot hated by the Senate Emperor Hadrian (76–138) – a traveler and an admirer of Greek culture Emperor Honorius (384–423) – the one, who allowed Rome to be plundered Emperor Caracalla (188–217) – a brutal madman or a victim of propaganda? Emperor Commodus (161–192) – an unfortunate son of a great father Emperor Maxentius (278–312) – an oppressor or a victim of a black legend? Emperor Marcus Aurelius (121–180)– a philosopher on the imperial throne Emperor Nerva (30–98) – a reasonable, gentle and wise emperor Emperor Romulus Augustulus (approx. 463–ok. 536) – the last emperor of the Western Empire and….nothing more Emperor Septimius Severus (145–211) – the one, who made the army into a leading force in the empire Emperor Theodosius the Great (347–395) – the one, who turned imperium Romanum into imperium Christianum Emperor Trajan (53–117) – the ideal Roman ruler – courageous, generous and on good terms with the Senate Emperor Titus (39–81) – the conqueror of Jerusalem and lover of Berenice Emperor Velentinian III (419–455) – the pathetic mutiny of a marginalized ruler Empress Domitia Longina (53?–128?) – respected and condemned, the fate of the wife of the last Flavian Helena – from an innkeeper to a saint, meaning how legends are made Empress Julia Domna (150/160? – 217) – an ambitious ruler and an unhappy mother Chigi – the ups and downs of a powerful family Caravaggio’s Young Sick Bacchus – an artist in the guise or perhaps something much more? Circus Maximus (antique hippodrome) – a favorite place of ancient Romans – races, bets and lotteries Città Universitaria – the pride of Fascists: between academic monumentalism and rationalism Cosimo Fancelli (1618–1688), a great, but second-tier master of the Roman Baroque Raphael’s Woman with a Unicorn - an image of a virgin marked by virtue Daniele da Volterra (1509–1566) – sentenced to many years of ridicule Bernini’s David – a sculpture testifying to the power of faith and humility Caravaggio’s David with the Head of Goliath – a victor filled with sorrow Dirck van Baburen (approx. 1592/93–1624) – a short, intense life of a Caravaggionist from the North The Fascist Youth Organization Building by Luigi Moretti – a new architecture for a new era The Moretti House of Arms – a pearl of modern architecture Domenichino (1581–1641), the Roman rise and Neapolitan fall of little Dominic Domenico Fontana (1543–1607) – an exceptional architect of an entrepreneurial pope Domenico Guidi (1625–1701) – meaning Bernini in the French style Donation of Constantine – one of the greatest forgeries in the history of the world Donato Bramante (1444 –1514) – a famous wrecker, who changed the face of Rome The Theodosian dynasty (379–455) – thoroughly Christian, yet marginalized and weak The Edict of Milan (313 A.D.) – a document not so new or breakthrough Bernini’s The Ecstasy of St. Teresa – an anthem on the subject of bodily union with God Ercole Ferrata (1610–1686) – an imitator of extraordinary talent Farnese - the triumph of nepotism Ferdinando I de’ Medici (1549–1609) – a lover of antiquity, who avoided papal disfavor Fontana dei Catecumeni – a café under the open sky Fontana dei Dioscuri – a monument of modern times put together with antique parts Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi – a symbol of greatness of the Catholic Church and the Pamphilj family Fontana del Mascherone di Santa Sabina – a charming, but undervalued Roman mascaron Fontana del Moro – African exoticism in the center of the city Fontana del Nettuno – a story of a water reservoir transformed into an elegant fountain Fontana del Prigione – but where is the prisoner? Fontana dell'Acqua Felice (Fontana del Mosè) – a camouflaged papal monument Fontana dell’Acqua Paola – a monument to the glory of Pope Paul V and the Borghese family Fontana della Rotonda – a work of papal ambitions and persistence Fontana della Terrina – from a litter bin to a gigantic soup bowl Fontana delle Amfore – a picturesque relict of Fascist times Fontana delle Tartarughe - meaning more haste less speed Fontana di Marforio – peregrinations of an ancient statue Fontana di Piazza Colonna – a grand idea and a rather modest implementation Fontana di Piazza Mastai – an old or a new fountain, here is the question Fontana di Trevi – a symbol of dolce vita and Rome’s greatest attraction Fontane di Piazza San Pietro – water fireworks at St. Peter’s Square Fontane on Piazza Farnese – ancient baths in the service of the Farnese family Foro Italico – an enclave of the cult of Mussolini and his empire Forum of Augustus (Forum Augustum) – a complex in his own honor and that of religion Forum Boarium – an ancient place of trade and cult Forum of Caesar (Forum Iulium) – discreet ambitions of a dictator, meaning a square in his own honor Forum of Nerva – an unfinished work of a condemned emperor Francesco Barberini (1597–1679) – papal nepot, admirer of books and art, defender of Galileo Francesco Borromini (1599–1667) – a distrustful melancholic and an extravagant architect Francesco Cavallini (1640–1703) – a sculptor of garlands and swaying saints Francesco Maria del Monte (1549–1626) – a cardinal full of passion for alchemy, music and painting Francesco Mochi (1580–1654) – ousted, forgotten, disconsolate Gaul Killing Himself and his Wife – meaning, praise of an honorable suicidal death Galileo (1564–1642) – the one who dared to ridicule the pope Galla Placidia (390–450) – an exceptional woman, worth as much as several tons of grain Genseric (approx. 390–477) – a Vandal, who brought Rome to its knees Gerrit (Gerard) van Honthorst (1590–1656) – a restrained nocturnal painter Giacomo della Porta (1533–1602), an author of Roman fountains and the most famous façade in the history of art Giovanni (Gian) Lorenzo Bernini (1599–1680) – Impulsive, arrogant and ingenious favorite of the popes Giordano Bruno (1548–1600) – a long life after death of the martyr of defiant thought Giovanni Battista Maini (1690–1752) – elegance of late Baroque Giovanni Lanfranco (1582–1647) – painter of the Church triumphant Giulia Farnese Orsini – black-eyed ad black-haired papal mistress Giuliano Finelli (1602–1653) – a sculptor of lace, leaves and collars, but also more Giuseppe Cesari (1568–1640) – in the past popular, today a forgotten favorite of the popes Laocoön Group – the dramatic story of one arm and its lack Guercino (1591–1666) – short career of the Pope’s chosen one in Rome Guido Reni (1575–1642) – a gambler with subtle manners Bernini’s Habakkuk and the Angel, meaning the story of a mysterious journey into the lion’s den Hadrianeum (Hadrian’s temple) – the spirit of the divine Hadrian in a temple of money Hercules – a fearless but rather dull protector of Rome Pietro da Cortona’s The Story of Aeneas – meaning where the pope searched for his roots Honoria (418–455?) – an emancipator or a tool of political calculations? Imperia Cognati - the most famous courtesan of Renaissance Rome Raphael’s Isaiah – how one great artist imitated another Jacopo Sansovino (1486–1570) – unappreciated in Rome, famous in Venice Bronzino’s John the Baptist – between cold eroticism and refined devotion Caravaggio’s St. John the Baptist – a work of art, sacrilege, or child pornography? Caravaggio’s Judith and Holofernes – a refined mixture of violence and desire Carafa Chapel – a place of Renaissance in every inch Cerasi Chapel – a clash of two artistic personalities Chigi Chapel – a treasury of esthetic sensations and religious emotions Contarelli Chapel – a place, where the surprised Matthew finds his path of life Del Monte Chapel – a stylistically balanced and artistically reserved place Cardinal Bessarion’s Chapel – a posthumous politically-religious message Chapel of Martyrdom of St. Peter (Tempietto) – an antique brought back to life The Pieta Chapel (Cappella della Pietà) in the Church of San Pietro in Montorio – a breath of fresh air of Dutch art Polet Chapel – a monument to the counter-reformation virtues of a French wine merchant The Rospigliosi-Pallavicini Chapel – the posthumous chord of a great Roman dynasty Cardinal Bessarion (1403?–1473) – the one who wanted to save Constantinople Cardinal Flavio Chigi (1631–1693) – a true dandy and a Roman trendsetter Cardinal Innocenzo Ciocchi del Monte (1532–1577) – the pope’s favorite with criminal inclinations Cardinal Paolo Camillo Sfondrati (1560–1618) – chasing sainthood Charles Borromeo (1538–1584) – an extraordinary nepot, critic and saint of the Church Catacombs of St. Agnes – burial in the shadow of a famous martyr Colosseum – an imperial response to a social need The Column of Marcus Aurelius – a souvenir of a wise, sensible and brave emperor Column of the Immaculate Conception – an antidote for heresies and mistakes of contemporary times Bernini’s Colonnade – to strengthen faith, Enlightenment and to convince the infidels Van Honthorst’s The Concert – singing together or perhaps a peregrination of the prodigal son? Constantina – an imperial daughter and an enigmatic saint Church of Dio Padre Misericordioso – a jewel of contemporary architecture in a sea of bleak apartment buildings Church of Il Gesù – modesty transformed into lavishness, meaning the stunning salon of the Jesuits Church of Sacro Cuore di Cristo Re, meaning, the beginning of a new era of sacral architecture Church of San Carlo al Corso – grandeur and splendor for an advocate of poverty Church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane – built out of hope and disappointment Church of San Giacomo in Augusta – a pilgrim church for the body and the spirit Church of San Girolamo dei Croati – here, where Jerome debates and preaches Church of San Lorenzo fuori le mura – a pilgrim basilica of admirable beauty Church of San Lorenzo in Fonte – a place of imprisonment and a miraculous conversion Church of San Lorenzo in Lucina – where Christ, joyfully floats up into the heavens Church of San Lorenzo in Miranda – a saint deacon in a pagan temple Church of San Lorenzo in Piscibus – deserted and modernized, yet moving Church of San Marcello al Corso – a church filled with beautiful tombstones Church of San Marco – where Venetians left their artistic mark Church of San Nicola da Tolentino – place, where Augustinians gave out their breads Church of San Nicola in Carcere – a church erected on a pagan cult site Church of San Pietro in Montorio – a place of artistic and religious contemplation Church of San Pietro in Vincoli – a pilgrimage to miraculous chains and a magnificent Moses Church of San Rocco – a church of the poor, the sick and the discarded Church of San Saba – a place filled with the spirit of the Middle Ages Church of San Stefano Protomartire – following in the footsteps of the cult of St. Stephen in Rome Church San Stefano Rotondo – a House of God filled with light and suffering Church of San Vitale – early Christianity and Jesuit propaganda at the busy via Nazionale Church of Sant’Agata dei Goti – a place of heretical services Church of Sant’Agnese fuori le mura – a spiritual idyll on the outskirts of the city Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone – a theatre of the senses and a mausoleum of memory Church of Sant’Andrea al Quirinale – the greatest construction of the ingenious Bernini Church of Sant’Andrea Catabarbara (nonexistent) – a valuable gift from a barbarian chieftain Church of Sant’Andrea della Valle – a foundation full of splendor and elegance Church of Sant’Andrea delle Fratte – where posthumously Bernini struggles with Borromini Church of Sant’ Apollinare – a church „with a past” Church of Sant’Ignazio di Loyola – an area of false impressions and optical illusions Church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza – refined evidence of architectural genius Church of Santa Balbina – a breath of antiquity far away from tourist routes Church of Santa Bibiana – an oasis of art in the urban jungle Church of Santa Caterina da Siena a Magnanapoli – a breath of Bernini’s art Church Santa Cecilia – early Middle Ages in a Baroque and rococo sauce Church of Santa Constanza (the mausoleum of Constantina) – a little known pearl of early Christian art Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli – a church welcoming and guarding pilgrims Church of Santa Maria del Popolo – a treasury of art and a mausoleum of family pride Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria – Baroque art on the move Church of Santa Maria di Loreto – paying a visit to the beautiful martyrs Church of Santa Maria in Aquiro – following the imitators and continuators of Caravaggio Church of Santa Maria in Cappella – the Middle Ages restored anew Church of Santa Maria in Domnica – a place, where the Virgin Mary is held by her foot Church of Santa Maria in Monserrato – the final resting place of two popes of famous reputation Church of Santa Maria in Montesanto – the guardian of a square, an elegant, harmonious and balanced church Church of Santa Maria Portea Paradisi – a place reminiscent of a gate to paradise Church of Santa Prisca – a church with a pagan underground and a fascinating Christian patron Church of Santa Pudenziana – an encounter with the art of late antiquity Church of Santa Sabina – beauty created out of stone, light and prayer Church of Santi Cosma e Damiano – famous for its mosaics and saint doctors Church of Santi Quattro Coronati – where, a mystic aura of the Middle Ages prevails Church of Santissimi Nomi di Gesù e Maria – an emotional theatre of death in a church interior Christina of Sweden (1626–1689) – a significant, yet cumbersome papal guest Square Colosseum, meaning an icon of Italian architecture – between propaganda and magic Raphael’s Fornarina – a mysterious love interest or perhaps… Antoniazzo Romano’s Legend of the True Cross – miraculousness told in a Renaissance way Liutprand of Cremona (920? – 972?) – a vicious, biased and partial chronicler Ludovico Ludovisi (1595–1632) – lover of Antiquity and an extremely bright papal nepot Luigi Moretti (1907–1973) – a rationalist, Fascist and postmodern architect Domenichino’s The Hunt of Diana – a painting about spying and its unfortunate results Arch of Janus – mysterious structure with four façades The Arch of the Silversmiths – a place of memory erased Arch of Constantine – an ancient example of artistic recycling Triumphant Arch of Emperor Titus – a commemoration of triumph and defeat engraved in stone Arch of Septimius Severus – a symbol of Roman expansion and dynastic ambitions Jacopo Sansovino’s Madonna del Parto – between a saint and a maid Madonna delle mani – an indecent work, damaged and found anew Caravaggio’s Madonna of Loreto - the sanctity of dirty, coarse feet Andrea Sansovino’s Madonna and Child with St. Anne – a work praised by poets Carlo Saraceni’s Madonna and Child with St. Anne – an everyday life scene and… a dove Giovanni Lanfranco’s Apparition of the Virgin to St. Lawrence – a thematic painting yet not bereft of artistry Bronzino’s Madonna with Child, St. John the Baptist and St. Anne – meaning a song of love sentenced to suffering Caravaggio’s Madonna and Child with St. Anne – a work despite and against itself Small Aventine – in search of ancient and early Christian Rome Marcella (approx. 325–410) – a curious erudite from Aventine Hill Marcello Piacentini (1881–1960) – praised and criticized creator of Fascist Rome Maria Clementina Sobieska (1701–1735) between reality and a dream Marozia (892? – 936?) – „beautiful as a goddess and fiery as a wench” March on Rome, meaning the political miracle of 28 October, 1922 Mausoleum of Empress Helena – meaning how to reconcile Christianity with the cult of the emperor Mausoleum on Janiculum Hill (Mausoleo Ossario Garibaldino) – the struggle for national heritage Caravaggio’s The Martyrdom of St. Matthew – death among onlookers and terrified passersby Caravaggio’s The Crucifixion of St. Peter – a painting on the banality of evil Melozzo da Forlì (1438–1494) – the one who introduced the delicate touch of Renaissance to Rome Michelangelo (1475–1564), a painter by force – divine, yet miserable Giovanni Baglioni’s Heavenly Love and Earthly Love – a virtue in the struggle against sin Mithraism, Mithra, mithraeum – a mystery religion of great popularity Michelangelo’s Moses – the remains of a tragic work Monophysitism – meaning the disintegration of Christian unity Mosaics in the Church of Santa Pudenziana – how the Good Shepherd became a lawgiver Melozzo da Forlì’s Musical angels – Christ among songs, music and dance Michelangelo’s Nude Christ – miraculously duplicated Caravaggio’s Narcissus at the Source – a tragedy of unfulfilled love, or perhaps a story about the essence of art Caravaggio’s Conversion of St. Paul – meaning how Saul became Paul Nepotism – a sanctified system proven and particularly effective The Incredulity of St. Thomas– and how strong is your faith? Antinous Obelisk (Pinciano) – pilgrimages of an obelisk of „sinful” provenance Flaminio Obelisk – a war trophy; the pride of the city, emperor and the pope Obelisk Macuteo – divine support for the emperor, the pope and the Roman populace Minerveo Obelisk, meaning the triumph of an elephant over Dominican dogs Mussolini Obelisk – a monument of national amnesia Vaticano Obelisk – a granite witness to history Odoacer (433–493) – the fall of the empire, meaning how an intelligent illiterate became a Roman king Olimpia Maidalchini (1591–1657) – a very entrepreneurial papal sister-in-law The Altar of Peace (Ara Pacis Augustae) – a camouflaged monument of private glory Onorio Longhi (1568–1619) – a vagabond architect San Silvestro Oratory – a propaganda leaflet, or a treatise on political harmony? Orazio Borgianni (1574–1616) – a melancholic with intellectual ambitions and an explosive character Orazio Gentileschi (1563–1639) – an intimate realist prone to rowdiness Domenichino’s The Last Communion of St. Jerome – a work about the superiority of communion under one kind Palazzetto dello Sport – a little pearl of contemporary architecture Palazzo Altemps - a refined ambience for a treasury of antique art Palazzo Altieri – the pride of a papal family Palazzo Barberini – a monument of papal ambitions, of which the likes Rome had never before seen Palazzo Doria Pamphilj – a palace famous for its love of art Palazzo di Firenze – the unloved residence of the de’ Medici family Palazzo Mattei di Giove – a salon and an open-air museum Palazzo Pamphilj – a residence of a woman of iron will and untamed ambition Palazzo Venezia – a residence of popes, ambassadors and Fascists Pantheon – a structure divine in every inch Pope Alexander I (? – 116?) – a holy shepherd of the holy water Pope Alexander VI (1431–1503) – an ambitious strategist with a great heart for women Pope Alexander VII (1599–1667) – a great constructor with a lead coffin in his bedroom Pope Alexander VIII (1610–1691), Pietro Vito Ottoboni – a profligate enthusiast of old books Pope Benedict XIV (1675–1758) – modernizer, reformer, a fierce enemy of Jews and Freemasons Pope Boniface VIII (1235?–1303), Benedetto Caetani – pope from the eighth circle of hell Pope Celestine I (?–432) – philosopher striving for the divinity of the mother of Jesus Pope Damasus I (approx. 305–384) – the one who changed the face of the Roman Church forever Pope Felix III (Felix II) (?–492) – a saintly, uncompromising and strict pope Pope Formosus (?816–896) – meaning, how to posthumously become a martyr Pope Gelasius I (?–496) – meaning Christ’s first Vicar on Earth Pope Gregory I the Great (approx. 540–604) – a monk by conviction, who changed the face of the Church for centuries Pope Gregory XIII (1502–1585) – a tireless counter-reformer and an efficient reformer of the calendar Pope Gregory XIV (1535–1591) – pious, modest, and lacking in will Pope Gregory XV (1554–1623) – a sickly and phlegmatic protector of the Jesuits Pope Hilarius (?–468) – a generous donor and a defender of orthodoxy Pope Hippolytus (approx. 170–235) – an overzealous saintly rigorist Pope Honorius I (?–638), a fallible pontifex maximus, in addition to being a heretic Pope Honorius III (1150–1227) – a significant Church strategist and an uncompromising ruler Pope Innocent I (? – 417) – a charismatic leader of the Church in times of chaos and uncertainty Pope Innocent III (1160–1216) – the first Vicar of Christ on Earth Pope Innocent VIII (1432–1492) – sickly, yet resourceful protector of his own children Pope Innocent X (1574–1655) – a modest brother-in-law of a greedy popess Pope Innocent XI (1611–1689) – a strict reformer, moralist and subduer of art Pope Innocent XII (1615–1700) – an exemplary shepherd and a protector of castrates Pope John XII (?937–964) – meaning the one who was mortally wounded by the devil in the bed of a married woman Pope Julius II (1443–1513) – a valiant ruler, courageous politician and a great protector of art Pope Julius III (1487–1555) – a dream about the power of ...a family Pope Callixtus III (1378–1458) – a disliked aesthetic from the Pyrenean Peninsula Pope Clement IX (1600–1669) – a librettist and humanist devoted to God Pope Clement VII (1478–1534) – a powerless politician and a firm protector of artists Pope Clement VIII (1536–1605) – an enemy of nudity, a pious and kind despot Pope Clement X (1590–1676) – a humble pope with an ambitious nepot Pope Leo I the Great (400?–461) – defender of Rome and the man behind the power of the Church Pope Leo X (1475–1521) – a generous patron of art and an enthusiast of parties and feasts Pope Nicholas V (1397–1455) – the one, who made art into a foundation of faith Pope Paschal I (?–824) – a collector of relics and a self-admirer Pope Paul II (1417–1471) – an enthusiast of carnival parties Pope Paul III (1468–1549) – an uncompromising patron of artists and his own family Pope Paul V (1552–1621) – a generous funder and a foresighted city manager Pope Pelagius II (?–590) – a protector of the needy and of Gregory the Great Pope Pius II (1405–1464) – a complete humanist on St. Peter’s throne Pope Pius XII (1876–1958) – a silent pontifex maximus Pope Sergius III (approx. 870–911) – meaning „ the slave of every vice” Pope Stephen VI (? – 897) – a story of the battle between the pope and a cadaver Pope Sixtus III (390–440) – a great constructor of Christian Rome Pope Sixtus IV (1414–1484) – a man of Renaissance and the creator of a new Rome Pope Sixtus V (1521–1590) – the bane of bandits and womanizers Pope Sylvester (? -335) – a marginal figure, yet a saint Pope Symmachus (? – 514) – a controversial but unrelenting shepherd Pope Simplicius (? – 483) – a bishop of Rome on the border of two eras Pope Theodore I (?–649) – a pope who brought the dead to Rome Pope Urban I (? – 230) – the beginning of the historical policy of the Church Pope Urban VIII (1568–1644) – pontifex maximus of the Baroque art Pasquino – snide, mean and still today irreplaceable Paula of Rome (347–404) – an example of womanly virtues Pauline Borghese (1780–1825) – a French provocateur in the papal chapel Antonio Canova’s Pauline Borghese as the Venus Victrix – remember me like this for ages Piazza Augusto Imperatore – in the service of historical policy Piazza del Popolo – the calling card of the city: a prestigious, elegant and representative location Piazza della Madonna dei Monti – a place not for tourists, picturesque and lively Piazza della Rotonda – the tribulation of popes, a square cleaned for centuries Piazza di San Pietro – an ingenious idea of two visionaries Piazza Farnese – a place enthralling at night and imposing during the day Piazza Navona – from a stadium to a representative salon of the pope Piazza Venezia – the vibrant heart of Rome Pierre Le Gros (1666–1719) – the dramatically halted magnificent Roman career Michelangelo’s Pietà – an astonishing story of silent suffering Pietro Aretino (1492–1556) – the father of yellow journalism and literary pornography Pietro Bracci (1700–1773) – a master of elegance and theatrical gestures Pietro da Cortona (1596–1669) – a virtuoso of glories, triumphs and apotheoses of all kinds Pinturicchio (1454–1513) – a creator of a simple, filled with grace storylines Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi) (1421–1481) – humanist, rebel, courtier Guercino’s The Funeral of St. Petronilla – a difficult topic, masterfully solved Statue of Giordano Bruno, meaning the ”black ship of Satan” among flowers, grapes and lettuce Statue of Giuseppe Mazzini – the delayed work of belle époque Funerary monument of Maria Clementina Sobieska – the joyful smile of a miserable queen Funerary monument of Pope Alexander VII, meaning the triumph of virtue over death Funerary monument of Pope Gregory XIII – the memories of the guardian of true faith Funerary Monument of Pope Gregory XV – a breath of subtle Jesuit propaganda Antonio Canova’s funerary monument of Pope Clement XIII – death appeased with beauty Antonio Canova’s funerary monument of Pope Clement XIV – a quiet grief of final parting Funerary Monument of Pope Leo XI – a modest and politically convincing work Funerary Monument of the Stuarts – death beautiful until perdition Ponte Duca d’Aosta – a monument of glory to the Italian soldier Ponte Flaminio – a bridge between imperial and Fascist Rome Ponte Rotto – a picturesque ruin from the times of the Republic Ponte Sant'Angelo – a reminder of the Passion of Christ and a warning for bandits Ponte Sisto – do not forget to pray and you shall be rewarded Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II – a bridge glorifying royal virtues Pornocracy, meaning the rule of harlots, but was that really the case? Porta del Popolo – a city gate filled with history and art Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X – a real, perceptive and effective portrait Portrait of Pope Clement IX – a subtle image of a delicate pontifex Bronzino’s Portrait of Stefano Colonna – a picture-perfect condottiero Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s The Rape of Proserpina, meaning sanctioned rape Pietro da Cortona’s Rape of the Sabine Women – all is well that ends well Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius – a symbol of imperial harmony and peace Ludovica Albertoni – a masterpiece in the shadow of a moral scandal Bernini’s Statue of St. Bibiana – meaning how to present a virgin in the moment of bliss Stefano Maderno’s Lying St. Cecilia – a miracle or an elaborate mystification? Caravaggio’s The Calling of St. Matthew – how a sinner becomes the chosen of God Raphael’s Fire in the Borgo – a hymn on the subject of more than just antiquity Carlo Saraceni’s Transitus Mariae – meaning how the Discalced Carmelites co-created the image of the Most Holy Virgin The Transfiguration – the most divine of all Raphael’s works Raphael (1483–1520) – the prematurely deceased genius of the Renaissance The Triumph of Religion Over Heresy by Pierre Le Gros – meaning a Jesuit theatrum sacrum Rospigliosi – a shadow of its former glory The Hall of Constantine (Stanza di Constantino) – a hymn praising the papacy Van Honthorst’s The Beheading of St. John the Baptist – a work immersed in darkness Scipione Caffarelli Borghese (1577–1633) – cardinal and papal nepot with truly earthly passions Silvia Ruffini (approx. 1475–1561) – a lonely, quiet widow, with a group of a cardinal’s children Michelangelo’s Vault of the Sistine Chapel – a masterpiece born out of doubt and suffering The Council of Nicaea (325) – where, the Nicene Creed was created Stadium of Domitian – Greek-style competition, to the joy of the populace Raphael’s Stanzas – meaning how the popes had wanted to live Stefano Maderno (c. 1570–1636) – an artist famous for just one statue The Temple of Hercules – an ancient hero on a cattle market The Temple of Portunus – a residence of gods, harlots and saints, meaning a pearl of antiquity The Temple of Romulus on Forum Romanum – a great archeological mystery Temple of Vesta and the House of the Vestals – a luxury of life for the renunciation of life Saint Agnes (Sant’Agnese) – a favorite of the Romans – an unbroken virgin Saint Balbina (Santa Balbina) – patroness of the stuttering and… not only Saint Bibiana (Santa Bibiana) – uncompromising Roman girl, whipped to death Saint Cecilia (Santa Cecilia) – twice miraculously found and equally miraculously kept in everlasting youth Artemisia Gentileschi’s Saint Cecilia Playing the Lute – an autoportrait in the guise of a saint Saint Cecilia Distributing Alms to the Poor– a story of the recalcitrant Roman populace Carlo Saraceni’s St. Cecilia with an Angel - two musicians Saint Eustochium (368–419) – a virgin through and through Saint Petronilla (Santa Petronilla) – a virgin and a betrothed of Christ Saint Prisca (Santa Prisca) – three saints for the price of one The Holy Family with St. Elizabeth, the Young St. John the Baptist, and an Angel – a family meeting with an angel in the background Saint Sabina (Santa Sabina) – an enigmatic saint from the Aventine Saint Andrew (Sant’Andrea) – holy apostle with a centuries-old visit in the Eternal City Saint Jerome (between 331 and 347 – 420) – „Romans hide your daughters because Jerome is coming” Caravaggio’s Saint Jerome – the Doctor of the Church as a weapon in the struggle against heretics Saint Hippolytus (Sant’Ippolito) – neophyte and a patron of prison guards Saint Sabbas the Sanctified (San Saba) – an uncompromising Palestinian proponent of Rome Saint Stephen (Santo Stefano) – a companion in the cult of St. Lawrence Saint Lawrence (San Lorenzo) – a favorite of the Romans; intercessor of those suffering in the fires of hell Melozzo da Forlì’s Sixtus IV Appointing Platina as Prefect of the Vatican Library – pope as an earthly ruler and a patron of science Cadaver Synod (897) – meaning, an unimaginable papal macabre Raphael’s’ The School of Athens– a fancy riddle or an alternative history Teatro dell’Opera di Roma – a temple of Italian music Theodora the Elder (? – 928?) – a prostitute or a woman of „truly manly strength”? Theodoric the Great (441–526) – a barbarian, for whom Romans erected monuments Tetrarchy – a utopia of an emperor sick and tired of ruling Raphael’s Triumph of Galatea – beauty and the beast in a Renaissance version Pietro da Cortona’s Triumph of Divine Providence – family apotheosis, meaning painting to the point of breathlessness Trophime Bigot (1597–1650) – a mysterious master of candlelight Tullia d’Aragona (1508? – 1556) – the queen of literary salons Guido Reni’s Crucifixion of St. Peter – meaning a reason for a duel Dying Gaul – a funeral rhapsody in memory of the Gauls The Deliverance of St. Peter– between reality and a vision Vanozza Cattanei (1442–1518) – the unofficial wife of the pope and the official mother of his children Via dei Fori Imperiali – an axis with political and ideological roots Via del Mascherone – a place of prayers, moans, and cries Via della Conciliazione – a road to reconciliation, and at the same time the beginning of a new era for the Church Giovanni Lanfranco’s Venus Playing the Harp – a tribute to music or perhaps to love? Crouching Venus – eavesdropped on for the last two thousand years Bronzino’s Venus, Cupid, and Satyr – a sublime allegory or a courtly jest? The Vestal Virgin Tuccia – between virtue and downfall, meaning the story of an unwanted work Victor Emanuel III (1869–1947) – a king rejected and unwanted Villa Aldobrandini – a place of respite over the city teeming with life Villa Farnesina – built with the thought of eternal glory Villa Giulia – the earthly paradise of Pope Julius III Villa of Maxentius – the rural residence of an unfortunate ruler Villa Medici – a Florentine and French enclave on Pincio Hill Caravaggio’s Fortune Teller – a painting about the dangers of life and the illusion of art Daniele da Volterra’s The Descent from the Cross – a faded shadow of a great work, meaning the aftermath of vandalism Caravaggio’s The Entombment of Christ – a perfect work Dirck van Baburen’s The Entombment of Christ – catching up with Caravaggio Raphael’s The Deposition – a painting of suffering, the fragility of life and an unforgettable loss Antoniazzo Romano’s Annunciation – meaning, how the Virgin Mary can miss the most important moment of her life Akceptuję